Top 10 Most Counterfeited Sports Cards Subbed to PSA
Top Most Counterfeited Sports Cards
Counterfeiting is a significant issue in the sports card hobby, especially for high-value vintage and modern grail cards. Here are some of the most commonly faked sports cards:
Vintage Cards (Pre-1980s)
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1909-11 T206 Honus Wagner
- One of the most famous and valuable cards in history, with multiple fakes in circulation.
- Many forgeries involve reprints that are artificially aged to look authentic.
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1952 Topps Mickey Mantle (#311)
- The holy grail of post-war baseball cards.
- Reprints and counterfeits often lack the correct printing dot patterns and card stock.
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1933 Goudey Babe Ruth (#53, #144, #149, #181)
- Multiple versions exist, making it easier for scammers to produce fakes.
- Many counterfeits use incorrect font styles and color shades.
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1963 Topps Pete Rose Rookie (#537)
- High demand leads to many altered or counterfeit copies.
- Common forgers take damaged originals and doctor them to appear in better condition.
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1986 Fleer Michael Jordan Rookie (#57)
- One of the most counterfeited modern-era cards.
- Fake versions often have incorrect colors, fonts, and border thicknesses.
Modern Cards (1980s-Present)
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2000 Playoff Contenders Tom Brady Rookie Auto (#144)
- High demand and high price make it a prime target for forgeries.
- Counterfeits often have fake autographs or altered serial numbers.
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2003-04 Topps Chrome LeBron James Rookie (#111)
- A major target for counterfeiting due to LeBron's popularity.
- Some fakes use incorrect refractor coatings.
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2009 Bowman Chrome Mike Trout Superfractor 1/1
- A single-card counterfeit attempt was reported, highlighting how even unique cards aren’t safe.
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2018 Prizm Luka Dončić Silver Rookie (#280)
- Altered and reprinted fakes circulate heavily, often with incorrect reflective patterns.
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2019 Prizm Zion Williamson Silver Rookie (#248)
- Popular rookie card targeted by counterfeiters.
How to Spot Fake Cards
✔ Check Card Stock – Counterfeits often use incorrect thickness and texture.
✔ Look for Printing Differences – Fonts, colors, and logos may not match originals.
✔ Use a Loupe or Magnifier – Real cards have dot matrix printing, while fakes often use digital printing.
✔ Compare to PSA/BGS Slabbed Cards – Look at verified graded examples for reference.
✔ Buy from Reputable Sources – Stick to major marketplaces and auction houses.
How PSA Authenticates and Grades Sports Cards
Professional Sports Authenticator (PSA) is the most well-known grading company in the hobby. Their authentication process involves several key steps to ensure a card is real, unaltered, and properly graded.
1. Card Inspection & Authentication
Before grading, PSA verifies that a card is authentic. Their experts check:
✔ Card Stock & Texture – They compare the card’s thickness, finish, and texture to known genuine examples. Many counterfeits have incorrect materials.
✔ Printing & Ink Patterns – PSA uses high-powered magnification to inspect dot matrix printing. Real cards have consistent, period-correct printing, while fakes often have pixelated or digital printing.
✔ Card Edges & Corners – Authentic cards have properly cut edges (depending on the era). Many counterfeits have wrong cuts, uneven edges, or laser-cut marks.
✔ UV Light Testing – Some cards have security features that react under UV light, revealing counterfeits.
✔ Size & Measurements – PSA checks the exact dimensions of the card, as many counterfeits are slightly oversized or undersized.
✔ Comparisons to PSA Archives – PSA has a database of authenticated cards for comparison, making it easier to spot fakes.
2. Alteration & Tampering Check
Even if a card is real, PSA checks for alterations, which can disqualify it from grading. Common alterations include:
❌ Trimming – Cropped edges to make corners appear sharper.
❌ Recoloring – Adding ink to fix faded spots or worn edges.
❌ Surface Pressing – Artificially flattening out creases.
❌ Cleaning/Wiping – Some chemical cleaning methods can remove factory coatings, which PSA detects.
If a card is altered, PSA will return it as "Altered" or "Evidence of Trimming."
3. Card Grading (1-10 Scale)
Once the card passes authentication, it is graded based on four key factors:
🟢 Centering – How well the image is positioned on the card.
🟢 Corners – Are the corners sharp or rounded?
🟢 Edges – Any chipping, wear, or rough cuts?
🟢 Surface – Scratches, dents, print defects, or damage?
Grading is on a 1-10 scale:
- GEM MINT 10 – Flawless, nearly perfect card.
- MINT 9 – Minimal imperfections.
- NM-MT 8 – Slight wear, still sharp.
- VG 3 or Below – Noticeable damage or wear.
4. Encapsulation (Slabbing)
Once graded, the card is:
✔ Placed in a tamper-proof PSA slab.
✔ Given a serial number (trackable in PSA’s database).
✔ Issued a red & white PSA label with the grade and details.
How to Verify a PSA-Graded Card?
- Go to PSA’s Cert Verification
- Enter the serial number from the slab.
- Compare it to PSA’s database image. If it doesn’t match, it could be a fake slab.