Top Most Counterfeited Sports Cards

Counterfeiting is a significant issue in the sports card hobby, especially for high-value vintage and modern grail cards. Here are some of the most commonly faked sports cards:


Vintage Cards (Pre-1980s)

  1. 1909-11 T206 Honus Wagner

    • One of the most famous and valuable cards in history, with multiple fakes in circulation.
    • Many forgeries involve reprints that are artificially aged to look authentic.
  2. 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle (#311)

    • The holy grail of post-war baseball cards.
    • Reprints and counterfeits often lack the correct printing dot patterns and card stock.
  3. 1933 Goudey Babe Ruth (#53, #144, #149, #181)

    • Multiple versions exist, making it easier for scammers to produce fakes.
    • Many counterfeits use incorrect font styles and color shades.
  4. 1963 Topps Pete Rose Rookie (#537)

    • High demand leads to many altered or counterfeit copies.
    • Common forgers take damaged originals and doctor them to appear in better condition.
  5. 1986 Fleer Michael Jordan Rookie (#57)

    • One of the most counterfeited modern-era cards.
    • Fake versions often have incorrect colors, fonts, and border thicknesses.

Modern Cards (1980s-Present)

  1. 2000 Playoff Contenders Tom Brady Rookie Auto (#144)

    • High demand and high price make it a prime target for forgeries.
    • Counterfeits often have fake autographs or altered serial numbers.
  2. 2003-04 Topps Chrome LeBron James Rookie (#111)

    • A major target for counterfeiting due to LeBron's popularity.
    • Some fakes use incorrect refractor coatings.
  3. 2009 Bowman Chrome Mike Trout Superfractor 1/1

    • A single-card counterfeit attempt was reported, highlighting how even unique cards aren’t safe.
  4. 2018 Prizm Luka Dončić Silver Rookie (#280)

    • Altered and reprinted fakes circulate heavily, often with incorrect reflective patterns.
  5. 2019 Prizm Zion Williamson Silver Rookie (#248)

  • Popular rookie card targeted by counterfeiters.

How to Spot Fake Cards

Check Card Stock – Counterfeits often use incorrect thickness and texture.
Look for Printing Differences – Fonts, colors, and logos may not match originals.
Use a Loupe or Magnifier – Real cards have dot matrix printing, while fakes often use digital printing.
Compare to PSA/BGS Slabbed Cards – Look at verified graded examples for reference.
Buy from Reputable Sources – Stick to major marketplaces and auction houses.

How PSA Authenticates and Grades Sports Cards

Professional Sports Authenticator (PSA) is the most well-known grading company in the hobby. Their authentication process involves several key steps to ensure a card is real, unaltered, and properly graded.


1. Card Inspection & Authentication

Before grading, PSA verifies that a card is authentic. Their experts check:

Card Stock & Texture – They compare the card’s thickness, finish, and texture to known genuine examples. Many counterfeits have incorrect materials.

Printing & Ink Patterns – PSA uses high-powered magnification to inspect dot matrix printing. Real cards have consistent, period-correct printing, while fakes often have pixelated or digital printing.

Card Edges & Corners – Authentic cards have properly cut edges (depending on the era). Many counterfeits have wrong cuts, uneven edges, or laser-cut marks.

UV Light Testing – Some cards have security features that react under UV light, revealing counterfeits.

Size & Measurements – PSA checks the exact dimensions of the card, as many counterfeits are slightly oversized or undersized.

Comparisons to PSA Archives – PSA has a database of authenticated cards for comparison, making it easier to spot fakes.


2. Alteration & Tampering Check

Even if a card is real, PSA checks for alterations, which can disqualify it from grading. Common alterations include:

Trimming – Cropped edges to make corners appear sharper.
Recoloring – Adding ink to fix faded spots or worn edges.
Surface Pressing – Artificially flattening out creases.
Cleaning/Wiping – Some chemical cleaning methods can remove factory coatings, which PSA detects.

If a card is altered, PSA will return it as "Altered" or "Evidence of Trimming."


3. Card Grading (1-10 Scale)

Once the card passes authentication, it is graded based on four key factors:

🟢 Centering – How well the image is positioned on the card.
🟢 Corners – Are the corners sharp or rounded?
🟢 Edges – Any chipping, wear, or rough cuts?
🟢 Surface – Scratches, dents, print defects, or damage?

Grading is on a 1-10 scale:

  • GEM MINT 10 – Flawless, nearly perfect card.
  • MINT 9 – Minimal imperfections.
  • NM-MT 8 – Slight wear, still sharp.
  • VG 3 or Below – Noticeable damage or wear.

4. Encapsulation (Slabbing)

Once graded, the card is:
✔ Placed in a tamper-proof PSA slab.
✔ Given a serial number (trackable in PSA’s database).
✔ Issued a red & white PSA label with the grade and details.


How to Verify a PSA-Graded Card?

  1. Go to PSA’s Cert Verification
  2. Enter the serial number from the slab.
  3. Compare it to PSA’s database image. If it doesn’t match, it could be a fake slab.